If you do have drum brakes on your vehicle, learning rear brake drum problems and how to diagnose them could potentially save you money on your car repairs.
There are a few signs that you should look for in order to determine if your brake drums need servicing. If your braking does not feel right when you press on the brake pedal there may be a problem with the drum brake system. When braking, you should expect firm resistance from the pedal as an indication that the braking system is functioning properly.
Rear Brake Drum noise is also a sign that you will want to inspect your drum braking system. Finally, if you are braking and you experience a shuddering feeling, or you do not brake as quickly you should you will want to determine what is causing this problem by removing the brake drum.
When you have the brake drum removed, you will be looking for a number of imperfections that can be causing brake drum problems. First, look for any signs of visible cracks, hairline cracks, deep scores and grooves, discoloration, or grease stains. This is the most obvious problem to spot and you will need to replace the drums for the more serious imperfections. Next, measure the thickness of the brake drum linings brake shoes.
If it is less than this, it could be causing noise when you brake. It is best to change the linings if you suspect they are too worn, as ignoring them can cause deep grooves in your brake drum that result in it needing to be replaced sooner. If you are changing the brake linings it is best to replace all of them, as failure to do so can cause your vehicle to lurch to one side.
A brake drum that is out of shape could be causing shuddering or pulsation when you are braking. If this has happened to your brake drums you will need to replace them. Other signs that you should be looking for brake drum problems are excess rust, corrosion or oil on the brake drum, shoes or surrounding brake parts master cylinder, hoses, lines, springs. If you are experiencing any of these brake drum problems you will want to have your drum brakes serviced.
Failure to do so can cause the failure of related brake parts and will significantly decrease your safety on the road.Time and again, the advantages of wet brakes have been proven, and fortunately most modern tractors are equipped with them.
However, complaints about brake chatter found on agricultural and off-highway equipment continue to tarnish the benefits of such stopping devices. Naturally, many farmers are concerned by the braking noise and vibration. Therefore, to help you stop the annoying din and bumpy ride, TractorLife. While there are a few OEMs that produce tractors with a dry brake system, the majority of farm machinery is equipped with wet brakes.
Q: What is brake chatter on a farm tractor? A: Farmers experience brake chatter when they hear loud squeaky noises from the braking system when braking. Producers may also feel vibration of the tractor. Q: Why does brake chatter only occur in wet brake systems? Since dry brakes are not immersed in oil, the brake chatter phenomenon does not occur. Q: What causes brake chatter in wet brake systems?
A: The brake chatter phenomenon can be caused by several factors, including:. In order to help you select fluids you can trust we launched the TractorLife. Fluids endorsed by this mark meet and often exceed OEM credentials, providing you optimal protection against wear, rust, oxidation, brake chatter, extreme temperatures and, ultimately, premature equipment failure.
Find out more now! Stop Brake Chatter. By Christina Thomas Time and again, the advantages of wet brakes have been proven, and fortunately most modern tractors are equipped with them. Q: First, what are the differences between wet and dry brakes? It protects the brakes from harsh conditions such as dust, mud, water and moisture. A: The brake chatter phenomenon can be caused by several factors, including: High amount of fluid degradation Large contamination of water in the fluids Lack of sufficient lubrication of the brake couplings Degradation of the brake friction material from high loads with extensive applications of heavy braking Q: What are the dangers of brake chatter?
A: Heavy brake chatter can be very unpleasant annoying for the farmer and possibly damage the tractor if allowed to continue over a long period of time. Q: What can be done to not only correct brake chatter but also prevent it? A: Since the type of fluid used in a wet brake system has a large effect on the amount of brake chatter experienced, a farmer hearing brake noise and feeling vibration should change the tractor hydraulic fluid immediately.
Q: What type of tractor hydraulic fluid should be used to prevent brake chatter? A: A farmer should be sure to select a high performing tractor hydraulic fluid that provides excellent wet brake performance. Q: With more low-quality tractor hydraulic fluids popping up on retail shelves every day, how can a farmer choose the proper fluid?
As a rule of thumb, most oil companies and original equipment manufacturers selling high performing fluids will spell out these attributes right on the label. The product should be chemically engineered specifically for farm tractors and other off-highway equipment and should list OEM specifications. The lubricant should prevent brake chatter or provide excellent wet brake performance. The product should offer excellent oxidation resistance.
The lubricant should have high water tolerance, which is the ability to protect parts from erosion and corrosion when contaminated with water. The product should be suitable for year-round use, including cold temperatures. First, what are the differences between wet and dry brakes?
Farmers experience brake chatter when they hear loud squeaky noises from the braking system when braking. Why does brake chatter only occur in wet brake systems? The brake chatter phenomenon can be caused by several factors, including: High amount of fluid degradation Large contamination of water in the fluids Lack of sufficient lubrication of the brake couplings Degradation of the brake friction material from high loads with extensive applications of heavy braking.
Heavy brake chatter can be very unpleasant annoying for the farmer and possibly damage the tractor if allowed to continue over a long period of time. What can be done to not only correct brake chatter but also prevent it? Since the type of fluid used in a wet brake system has a large effect on the amount of brake chatter experienced, a farmer hearing brake noise and feeling vibration should change the tractor hydraulic fluid immediately.
What type of tractor hydraulic fluid should be used to prevent brake chatter?Brake disk chatter can be very annoying. It is the vibration or shake you will feel when you press on the brake pedal, particularly when braking from high speed. At low speed you will feel a pulsing in the brake pedal as you come to a stop - almost like a tire is out-of-round. This is usually caused by a brake disk that is out-of-round or like a potato chip. If it has been occurring for a while and has progressively gotten worse, rotor replacement is the only cure resurfacing Mercedes brake rotors is not recommended and most likely will not be a permanent cure.
If it happens right after installing new rotors then you should act immediately to fix the problem BEFORE the new rotor is permanently damaged.
How to Troubleshoot Sticking Drum Brakes
Here are the actions you should take:. Remove the rotors and thoroughly clean the hub with a scotch bright pad. These are available to be mounted on air sanders and die grinders as shown. If this is not available you can use to grit sandpaper. Use the finest grade available to do the job. Always install new brake pads when installing new rotors. Brake Rotor Chatter or Pulsation. Causes and cures for this common problem. W W W W W Sedan. W W Coupe.
Loosen all lug bolts, then re-tighten progressively and evenly until you reach the maximum torque of 85 ft pounds always use a torque wrench on each bolt. If that does not improve the "chatter" then there is a possibility the rotors did not get mounted flush to the hubs.
I had a shop do the shoes several months ago which included a lifetime warranty. They inspected, replaced the shoes and hardware and said I was good to go.
Almost immediately we noticed there was still some noise and confirmed that the shoe is sticking on that side generating quite a bit of heat. Took it back to the shop, they did another inspection and said they couldn't tell what it was for sure and that it would take up to 2 hours of digging into it to determine what the problem might be.
My question to them was what else could it be besides the wheel cylinders? The manager responded it could be one of many different issues in the hydraulic system. Well I'm not going to give them the OK to fish around for a couple of hours to tell me what is wrong. I'm thinking I start with replacing the wheel cylinders though they appear to be working OK. Any ideas on what else it could be? Joined Aug 9, If your drums have become ovoid. A frozen adjuster is not a big dollar item and i find it hard to think that they didn't lube up your adjusters when they did the rear brakes.
Joined Aug 21, Hardware is new you said, that should be obvious as it should look new, lubed and freely moving. Wheel cylinders can stick, rubber brake hoses also collapse internally and cause brakes to drag and not fully release. Bad hose is a guess after everything else is checked or replaced. No easy way to tell on a hose until it's changed out.
Hose doesn't happen often but it happens. Just finished replacing wheel cylinders. Adjuster turned freely and was adjusted all the way in the in. When I got in there the contact points had ridges and I thought that was it so I ground those down smooth. Well, just got back from a test drive and its still dragging the shoes. It doesn't feel like the drum is out of round no "lopping".
I guess the next step is to start replacing brake line unless anyone has any other suggestions. I didn't mean to infer the shop was a rip-off or be derogatory. Doing work myself especially brake shoes!Drum brakes are common on older automobiles, and on lower-cost vehicles they are still frequently used on the rear wheels. While not as effective or reliable as modern disc brakes, drum brakes have the advantage of being less expensive and lighter, and when used in the rear position they do not seriously impair the braking function.
The parking brake mechanism can also be incorporated into a drum brake, alleviating the need for a separate parking brake mechanism. Unfortunately, the mechanical complexity of drum brakes leaves plenty of opportunity for problems, some of which can cause the brake to stick.
Park the automobile on a flat, level surface. Do not set the emergency brake. Put an automatic transmission in "park," or a manual transmission in first or reverse gear. Set the parking brake. Typically it should take six to 10 clicks of the pedal or lever to set the brake, and the resistance of the pedal or lever should increase the further it is moved. If the parking brake is adjusted too tight then only a couple of clicks will be required to set the brake. If the trailing brake shoe in the drum is sticking, the parking brake lever or pedal will feel slack right up until the parking brake engages.
Release the parking brake.
What could cause brake chatter when cold and at low speeds
Partly loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Jack up the rear of the automobile and rest it securely on axle stands. Remove both rear wheels. Remove the drums on both rear wheels. Some drums are secured by two or four bolts, some by two screws, and others by nothing at all. Remove any retaining bolts or screws and pull the drums off.
If the drum is seized, tap it firmly with a mallet on the front shoulder to loosen. Do not hit the rim of the drum where it meets the backing plate. Also, some drums have a hole near the bottom of the drum that allows access to the adjuster mechanism.
If the drum is sticking, reach through the hole with a small screw driver and turn the adjuster wheel to relieve tension on the brake shoes. Carefully examine the brake mechanisms on both wheels. There are two return springs connecting the front and rear brake shoes, and if either of these is broken or weakened, the shoes will not retract properly and they will drag on the drum.
Hold the adjuster lever off of the adjuster wheel and turn the wheel back and forth. If the adjuster wheel is at the end of its travel it will force the shoes to drag on the drum. A seized adjuster wheel may be holding the shoes out against the drum.
Look for signs of corrosion or accumulations of dust and dirt. Heavy deposits where the shoes contact the backing plate, or around the pivot points for the adjuster lever, the operating lever, and the brake retaining pins can seize the brake mechanism and prevent the shoes from retracting normally. Observe the brake cylinder operation while an assistant starts the automobile and gently pushes the brake pedal a few times.
Do not pump the brakes. Allow about five seconds between each push on the brake pedal. The cylinder piston should extend when the pedal is pushed and retract when the pedal is released. A defective cylinder can remain extended and hold the shoes against the drum.Automotive Forums. I have a Taurus with rear drum brakes. I have replaced the drums, shoes, springs, and adjusters all new equipment and am experiencing a "chatter" when stopping. The sound is a dull clunking sound coming from the back wheels.
The car sounds fine when the brakes are not being applied. Someone please help. This problem has me baffled. Make sure the dust shield is not mangled up, rubbing on the drum. Not sure why that might cause a chatter only when brakes are applied.
Did you grease the landings on the backing plate where the drums rub? If not, that could be contributing to a noise. Does the noise only occur under light braking, or is it always there when braking? If it's always there when braking, are the drum adjusters properly set?
Maybe you don't have full braking in the rear so even when you're pressing the pedal fully, the rear brakes are not fully engaging. If there is oil or grease on the shoes, you might get a similar noise, but since you replaced the shoes and the drums, that is not very likely. Are the wheel cylinders leaking at all?
Sticking rear brake shoes-
Have you tried putting the car on jackstands and having someone gently apply the brakes while you rotate the rear wheels? If so, can you hear the noise then? If you do hear the noise, can you tell if it is for sure coming from inside the drum? If you don't hear the noise, maybe the noise is actually a suspension issue. Did the noise start happening shortly after having a four wheel alignment performed?
Maybe some bolts didn't get tightened in the rear. Can you still hear the noise when braking in reverse? The dust shield is clearing fine.Drum breaks work by typically halting the movement of a cylindrical moving object by pressing pads against it.
How well do you know of this system? Does your car use this system? Find it all out in the quiz below. Forgot your password? Speak now. Drum Brakes. Please take the quiz to rate it. All questions 5 questions 6 questions 7 questions 8 questions 9 questions 10 questions 11 questions 12 questions 13 questions 14 questions 15 questions 16 questions 17 questions 18 questions 19 questions 20 questions.
Feedback During the Quiz End of Quiz. Play as Quiz Flashcard. Title of New Duplicated Quiz:. Duplicate Quiz Cancel. More Vehicle Quizzes. Steering And Suspension-slo. Featured Quizzes. The Office Trivia Quiz! What U. City Should You Live In? Related Topics. Questions and Answers.
Remove Excerpt. Removing question excerpt is a premium feature. True or False. The composition of the lining material affects brake operation. Materials that provide good braking with low pedal pressures tend to lose efficiency when they get hot.
Tech A says that it is a good practice to research any technical service bulletins for any brake system complaint. Tech B says that it is common practice to test-drive a vehicle even if the brake pedal goes to the floor. Who is correct? Tech A says that when removing a hubless-style drum, you should first make matching marks on the drum and hub for reinstallation in the correct position. Tech B says that a center punch can be used to mark the position of the drum to hub. Tech A says that if a hubless-style drum has screws or speed nuts holding the drum to the hub, you should remove them following the specified procedure.